Diwali

I returned to Kathmandu two days ago and am now back in the hotel with the large yeti in the back garden. It seems strange being back here after a full and very eventful five months further up country in Pokhara and the Annapurna district.

My return has coincided with the Diwali Festival of Lights and everywhere families are decorating their homes, and buildings are festooned with strings of multicoloured lights. Yesterday I walked back to historical Durbar Square, along the bustling chaotic thoroughfare of the Chhetrapati, Thamel district of the city where I am staying and where you see people living a more traditional way of life.

I had last visited Durbar Square back at the end of June, when I had been the only visible foreigner given the limitations of international travel at that time. I have seen far more recently with the relaxation of restrictions, but I still seemed to be the only non resident in the square that day.

The place was crowded with people intent on buying or selling goods for the festival and everywhere there were stalls and stands selling garlands and bouquets of flowers, fruits, sweets and many decorative items.

I had learned that the eve of the main festival is devoted to honouring the household dog, followed by the cow, then the buffalo and finally when sisters and brothers give each other the traditional ritual red tikka mark on the forehead, commonly observed after people have visited the temple. For dog day, dogs are also given a tikka and a garland to wear.

It was a wonderful, bright and vibrant scene of the sort found in Christmas markets in Western countries, if a lot warmer. Sadhus sat sunning themselves, throngs of pigeons flew everywhere, hosts of motorcyclists and bicyclists vied with pedestrians. The scene veritably buzzed with life.

I had already taken many photos of the different historical buildings, ravaged by the effects of the 2015 earthquake, during my first visit back in June. So, after a happy hour soaking up the brightness, the noise and the air of festivity, I retreated to the cool quiet of a café close by and and cup of definitely non traditional expresso!